Huge Waves at Beaches -- A Surfer's Paradise, but Maybe Not for Novices

High surf resulting from a big swell will hammer the California coast Wednesday, creating dangerous waves, perilous rip currents and possibly some minor coastal flooding, the National Weather Service said.

A high surf advisory will be in effect from 10 a.m. Wednesday until 10 p.m. Thursday in Los Angeles and Orange counties, with forecasters expecting surf of between five and 10 feet, with maximum sets of 12 feet, according to NWS statements.

Stronger surf is expected north of L.A. County.

“Large waves and strong rip currents will increase the risk of ocean drowning,” one statement said. “Large waves can suddenly overrun previously dry beaches and jetties as well as harbor walkways around the time of high tide. Minor beach erosion is possible.”

Swimmers were urged to swim parallel to shore until able to break free if caught in a rip current.

The swell causing the high surf is the result of a strong storm system now west of Northern California, the statement said, adding that a new bout of high surf is expected Friday night through Saturday.

Temperatures, meanwhile, will remain abnormally high. The NWS forecast sunny skies and highs in Los Angeles County of 70 in Palmdale; 71 in Lancaster; 72 on Mount Wilson; 75 in Avalon; 82 at LAX and in Saugus; 83 in Long Beach; 84 in downtown L.A., Burbank and San Gabriel; 85 in Pasadena; and 86 in Woodland Hills. In Orange County, the NWS forecast highs of 73 in Newport Beach; 74 in Laguna Beach; 75 in San Clemente; 80 in Irvine; 82 in Anaheim; 84 in Mission Viejo; 85 in Fullerton; and 87 in Yorba Linda.

A slight cooling trend will begin Friday, but temperatures will rise again, from the 70s to the 80s, on Tuesday.

--City News Service, photo via Shutterstock