Oak Bluffs Celebrates 150 Years Of Grand Illumination

OAK BLUFFS, MA — Wednesday evening marked a very special milestone in island history: a century and a half of Grand Illumination, a tradition unique to the Martha's Vineyard Campmeeting Association.

The tabernacle went dark as the first lantern was lit, an electric current running through the crowd as the anticipation built. Once the first lantern was carried to the end of the aisle and hung, the tabernacle was suddenly ablaze with light as lanterns surrounding the building were lit, signalling to the rest of the campground that it was time to turn on their lights as well.

The MVCMA is a collection of colorful, ornate summer cottages clustered in cul-de-sacs and little neighborhoods across 34 acres in Oak Bluffs. Originally a Methodist revival in the 1800s, the religious community is centered by the large circular iron tabernacle in its center, an open-air church that serves as a venue for community events throughout the summer such as movie nights, children's plays, speakers and musical acts and, every Wednesday night, an old-fashioned community sing.

Grand Illumination was first held 150 years ago, to the day, on August 14, 1869. According to the MVCMA, it was started as a celebration to welcome to Governor of Massachusetts, spearheaded by a developer named Erastus Carpenter. A special exhibit at the Martha's Vineyard Museum explained that Carpenter, looking to show off the new neighborhood, asked residents to decorate their homes with Japanese silk lanterns, brought to the island by sailors returning from Asia.

Today, the annual event draws thousands of people, tourists and islanders alike, filling the streets of the campground and the aisles of the tabernacle. As early as Wednesday morning, campgrounders began decorating their houses, stringing lights, hanging lanterns and tying elaborate parasols to wooden gingerbread. What began as silk lanterns carefully lit with candles has expanded into a wide variety of lanterns in every shape, color and size imaginable, the vast majority lit with strings of electric lights or flickering LED lights that provide the look of candles without the fire hazard.

The sing is led by the music director Bob Cleasby, who for years has led the community in song, always taking the stage in his signature red pants. Young and old alike joined in to sing patriotic songs, classic hymns and other old favorites.

Young said one of his favorite parts of Illumination is having the chance to be a part of the experience with the community.

"I love looking out at the crowd when I have a minute between songs," he said. "The audience really responds to the music and it's so wonderful to see all of the smiles."

For nearly two hours, people moved from street to street, crowds ebbing and flowing between houses as people stopped to take photos or simply admire the glow. There are two ways to spend Grand Illumination as a campgrounder, each equally enjoyable: walking the grounds to take in the sights or sitting on your porch, watching the crowds slowly pass by.

All too soon, it is over, the bells from the Methodist church ringing to signal the end of another year. Lanterns are carefully taken down and packed away, candles trimmed and lights coiled in boxes. Children, allowed to stay up late to experience the magic, carefully hang their lightsticks by their beds to look at as they fall asleep.

By the next morning, it's like it never happened, with nothing but trampled grass and tired smiles to indicate anything is different. But it's impossible to forget this truly unique slice of history, so different from anything else, and you find yourself counting down the days until next year, when once again, life will for one August night be as it was in 1869: glowing.