Long Island Proud: Remembering Montauk's Roberta Gosman Donovan

Montauk is referred to as “The End” of Long Island. Most Long Islanders have been to Montauk and if you have been to Montauk you know how beautiful it is. Many visitors have had the pleasure of dining at Gorman's Dock. In 2006 I had the pleasure to spend an evening interviewing Roberta Gosman Donovan who passed away this week at the age of 85 years old. Here is part of the story she told me that evening.

In 1943, Roberta’s dad, Robert Gosman purchased what is now called Gosman’s Dock from the Bonner Fuel Company. Roberta recalled, “It was where people bought fuel; back then there were only two docks, Bonner’s and the Montauk Yacht Club.”

Roberta also said that before the dredging one could actually walk from Gosman’s Dock out to Star Island over the mud in the harbor.

She then explained that, it wasn’t until 1946 that the first Gosman’s Restaurant was built "and it was just a bit more than a shack. Back then people sat on old fish boxes to eat. We opened it because it was miles from the nearest place to get coffee and chowder; the original restaurant was only opened for breakfast and lunch. It was basically for the commercial fisherman who kept their boats at the dock.”

Today Gosman’s is an empire with three restaurants, Gosman’s Dock Restaurant, Topside and Inlet Café, and Gosman’s Clam Bar for stand-up and take out dining. All this is located on five acres with well over 800 feet of waterfront. Roberta told me that her dad Robert Gosman was from Amagansett where his dad worked for the Long Island Rail Road. He met his wife Mary, who was from Ireland, during a summer romance while they both had summer season jobs in East Hampton. Mary and Robert Gosman had five children, John, Bill, Richard, Roberta, and Emmett, who still run the family business now for more than 70 years. In the beginning the Gosman’s Dock bought and brokered lobsters and fish, as well as sold fuel. In the 1950s it was Mike Nicoletti making breakfast and lunch for the customers of Gosman’s Dock. It was Roberta’s mother, Mary Gosman, who, according to Roberta, first brought over some Irish students, and housed them. This of course led the way for so many more to come over the years.

In 1960 the restaurant was expanded with an outside deck, and Roberta made a point to credit Frenchman Gene Gazrell. She said he did some fine cooking in those early 60s as dinner was added to the menu. Roberta was a waitress back then and laughed when she said, “They came by boat, plane, bus, cars, bikes and by foot.” By 1968 the restaurant was expanded to what now exists, with the beautiful covered decks facing the entrance to Lake Montauk harbor.

Roberta recalled her mother’s detail to the gardens that surround the restaurant, and when Roberta would sees the gulls she always remembered her father Robert Gosman’s wise words to her, “When the gulls fly high the weather will change!”

Knowing I loved sailing Roberta smiled as she told me that after her father Robert turned the business over to his children he spent his last years merrily sailing his 14’ sailboat, The Mary, around the harbor and just out the inlet.

In the bar area is a bell with the date May 21, 1968. On that day the bar area opened and she was proud that not much in it had changed. She brought me over to inspect the huge oars overhead and the many wonderful photos and said, “It’s sort of a Gosman’s family album.” Right there on the wall. When you sit at that bar you can feel the history. Roberta made a point that it’s a great place to eat often, not just when you have the whole family together. Roberta talked about Gosman’s as her life, her family, and her duty to carry on.

Rest in peace, Roberta Gosman Donovan. Your life’s work making all us Long Islanders enjoy our Montauk stays forever in our minds. You were so very Long Island Proud.

The photo is of Montauk personality and legend Lenny De Fini with a smiling Roberta Gosman Donovan. He said he'd be honored if I used it.

T.J. Clemente is a Patch columnist.