$500 Lobster Roll? PORT's Menu Means Celebration, Shared Memories

GREENPORT, NY — Stepping onto the deck at PORT Waterfront Bar and Grill, launching its sophomore season in Greenport on the site of the former Chowder Pot Pub, is entering a sun-kissed waterfront destination that not only has arguably some of the best views on the North Fork — but a new chef and a menu, with something for everyone, that easily emerges as the star of the show.

Married owners Keith and Alison Bavaro, the real-life love story behind the popular SALT on Shelter Island, brought their culinary expertise and passion for infusing their eateries with heart and flat-out fun to the North Fork last year — and this year, they brought in new Executive Chef Alexander Williamson, who's worked with the couple for months to present a menu that's so mouthwateringly tempting, it's hard to decide what to order.

First, let's start with that lobster roll: Yes, the idea of a $500 lobster roll has sparked interest and excitement from all corners. Keith Bravaro explained that the "Nickle Lobster Roll," an offering on the "Experts Only" menu, is more than two-feet long, overstuffed, created with mouthwatering foie gras butter aioli and topped with caviar, and served with truffle fries and a bottle of cold 2006 Dom Perignon; the champagne alone costs about $450, he estimates.

The queen of lobster rolls is the equivalent of four regular lobster rolls, with about 20 oz. of lobster meat, every bite an "over the top" indulgence.

"This is meant to be for someone celebrating, perhaps, their 50th anniversary. It's about celebration," he said. "This is meant for making a memory."

Make no mistake: There are other, less extravagant lobster roll options on the menu. There's Footlong Lobster Roll, and also a Classic Lobster Roll.

But the must-taste, to-die-for option is the Brown Butter Miso Lobster Roll (Shown in the photo above) a sweet and savory lobster salad, mixed with pickled celery and Granny Smith apples on a grilled bun — a lobster roll so delicious it sets the bar for all other lobster rolls ever to come your way in the future. It's a must-try this summer.

Clearly joyful about the journey, Bavaro described how PORT was born. After the Blue Canoe — which opened after the longtime Chowder Pot Pub at the spot — closed, he and his wife conjured up the concept for PORT, which opened to an enthusiastic crowd last summer.

Bavaro, who first began summering on Shelter Island when he was four days old, said Greenport has long been a part of his life. He remembers childhood days at the carousel when it was still on the corner, eating ice cream and watching movies in the village.

"It's a very magical and special place," he said. Creating PORT in Greenport with his wife, he said, is something that makes them both feel immensely "blessed and grateful."

Just taking the ferry from Shelter Island and back to Greenport, Bavaro said, fills him with a sense of peace, the stress melting away, one of his favorite parts of the day as he breathes in the majestic views his clientele at PORT soak up at every meal, whether at the gazebo bar, sitting by the two fire pits, on the decks with views of the ferries traversing blue waters, or at new tables, designed and created by Shelter Island High School students, that will seat larger parties of more than 12.

There's also a "Mermaid Room" inside with additional seating, as well as a bar area where guest can cozy up, catch a game, and wait for the ferry home while sampling some of Chef Williamson's tantalizing fare.

Williamson, a self-professed "Long Island born guy" who attended Johnson & Wales University in Providence before working at some of the finest eateries in the world, including the Gramercy Tavern, Morimoto and Veritas, bring more than 23 years of vast expanse of experience to the proverbial table — and he does it with an engaging warmth, humility and sincerity, a passion for his work that emanates from every dish. Williamson began his stint with the Bavaros last year at SALT and this year is taking the helm in PORT's kitchen.

With deep roots on the East End — Williamson's family first built in Amagansett in 1961 — both men share a love for the area, but had never met until last year.

But they clearly share a similar sensibility and vision — an excitement for creating a menu that's meant for making memories.

The goal, Williamson said, has been about, "How do we make a fun, great menu that has people excited, but not scared?" The idea, he said, was to steer way from been there, done that menu items seen everywhere, follow cutting edge food trends and create exciting new choices, and infuse them with ingredients diners wouldn't shy away from but instead, embrace.

And, both said, the vision is about communal, family style choices, shared experiences — while also allowing for diners who prefer their own portions.

A new, separate menu for large parties allows parties of 12 or more to share appetizers, choose an individual entree, and then pick from extras to make it a party, including pitchers of drinks or a raw bar. There's a menu for the little ones, too.

After months of the team working together, Williamson has surpassed any goals set — presenting a menu with choices including a lobster grilled cheese with lobster tomato bisque for dipping, cut up into four corners for easy sharing as an appetizer; a corn scallion lobster waffle with bean sprouts, sweet aioli, eel sauce and bonito flake reminiscent of street fare in Osaka and "bursting with flavor"; and signature mussel pots in choices including Greenport Beer Broth Mussels, with Greenport Harbor Ale, Local Rose Wine Broth mussels, made with Lenz Winery's 2016 Firefly Rose, garlic, shallots, an butter; a full array of bowls, including an Ahi Tuna Poke Bowl, a Cubano Shredded Pork Bowl, and an Asian Shrimp Tempura option.

Also on the "Experts Only" menu is a Japanese-inspired head-on, tail-on Crispy Whole Fish Taco, served with warm corn tortillas and fixings.

Save room for the Key Lime Pie On A Stick, dipped in dark chocolate and topped with sea salt and lime zest. There are no words. Just try it.

Their love for their work is evident as both Bavaro and Williamson burst into conversation to explore new recipes, creatively in tune with a shared mission.

"I am a better person or having known Keith and Ali," Williamson said; Bavaro agreed that the partnership has made their unique talents even stronger, combined.

"My vision has been, 'How do we take advantage of being on the waterfront and create an experience so people who visit wake up the next day with faces that hurt from smiling so much?' We enjoy what we do. We're very blessed to be here, and we want to do it justice," Bavaro said.

Looking out over the sparkling water, the beach waiting for children to play, feeling the first summer breezes, Bavaro smiled. "This place just screams summer."

PORT Waterfront Bar and Grill is located at 104 3rd Street in Greenport. For additional information, hours of operation and menus, click here.

Photos by Lisa Finn.