Local Voices
The Lost Art of Creating the Perfect Antipasto
Before a wonderful dinner in Southampton, I experienced the magic of an artful antipasto.

By definition, antipasto is the traditional first course of a formal Italian meal. At some of the finest Italian restaurants around the world the antipasto is designed to give you an insight into the creative consciousness and imagination of the chef before partaking in the main meal.
Attention to detail of all the courses served tells one quite a bit about the host. Too often it is a hastily thrown together situation after a visit to a named Italian delicatessen. Other times it is an attempt at something it just isn't, but rarely these days is the antipasto a home run of originality.
Just this last weekend I was schooled in the art of making a perfect antipasto by financier/businessman Paul Kushner who explained attention to detail is very important. Although he didn't say it, he implied making a meal was similar to the composition of an intricate business deal. Meaning you need quality ingredients, imagination and knowledge. One must know what and where to buy the tastiest and highest quality ingredients and then with patience and knowledge and a touch of "fantasia" compose a presentation that will not only create a beautiful collection of food but also create a concert of perfect taste and pleasure.
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Mr. Kushner is no amateur when it comes to composing meals, he is known throughout Southampton and Sag Harbor for his amazing dinner parties where he often prepares all the food himself. But it was his antipasto of fresh mozzarella, draped with creative lines of balsamic vinegar with a collection of Italian and Spanish olives, and tri-colored tomatoes, artichokes, plus a secret magic combination of the tastiest stuff I have ever sampled (as pictured above) that caught my immediate attention. This complimented the home made Manicotti, that Paul made himself that followed. The finale' was a spaghetti with crab meat, portobella mushroons, peas and a few other secrets that Barbara, Paul's bride of 16 years put together with his supervision. Traditional Italian pastries and coffee was also served.
Being 100% Italian and having been to Italy quite a few times I don't remember a better Italian meal ever. My point being, creating a wonderful antipasto is the first important step to composing an authentic Italian experience. Sadly it is becoming a lost art.