Restaurant Critique
Coco J’Adore
1 Little West 12th Street New York, NY
Pamela Goldman
Photos: Gerald Feldman
Patch.com
With it’s posh, hip vibe, Coco J’Adore is a
hidden gem in the Meatpacking District of Manhattan.
Opened just six months ago, the restaurant is already
creating a buzz, attracting models, socialites and NY
foodies. “It feels like a sexy, hidden lounge that you
would find in Paris,” one patron commented. The art
on the walls is Pop and the music ranges from American
Rockabilly standards like Fats Domino’s 1955 hit, “Ain’t
that a Shame,” and Chuck Berry’s 1958 hit , “Johnny
B. Goode.” Mixed into the groove are Ray Charles and
Credence Clearwater Revival. With people giggling and
even dancing in the background, owner Mario Costa has
succeeded in making a terribly fun and exciting place to
see and be seen.
Just as Mr. Costa intended, Coco J’Adore is
artsy, sleek and edgy where food is concerned, serving
french classics in an entirely new and enchanting way.
One patron warns people to give this place a shot
before it gets mobbed! The old brick arches and walls
remain from when it was probably an old meat locker
from before this District turned into a hot, upscale
neighborhood. The bricks are now whitewashed and the
seating is plush. Many lit up globes hang from the ceiling
giving the atmosphere an almost futuristic vibe.
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At the helm of the kitchen is Chef Simone Venturini
using techniques found in both french and Italian cuisines
with sophisticated twists in everything he
prepares. For an appetizer we ordered Les noix de
St. Jacques. These are scallops artistically served in
their shells with a carrot relish, saffron potato sauce
and pink pepper chips. Beautifully presented on a bed
of salt, the sweetness and tenderness combined with
totally unique flavorings, left us feeling that nowhere
in the world could scallops be so succulent and exotic.
It may have even been the highlight of the evening,
right out of the gate! We also had the hummus de Coco
which was fava bean spread, olives, lemon confit and
sour dough crisps. The colors were bright and fresh,
the flavor unique, all done in pure Coco fashion. Yet
I must say that it’s been three days since our dinner
and we are still talking about the scallops.
Diving into our main course, we ordered the Steak Frites
au jus. The quality of the meat was incredible and tender.
The jus was ladled on from the side. Just a guess, but
the meat was probably marinated for such a tasty and soft
texture. Served with caramelized whole baby onions,
the dish was a sight to see.
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Everything we had was impeccably presented and
the fun atmosphere made the evening a delight as
we lounged back on the teal, plush banquets. For
dessert we had a wonderful apple tart with a side
of raspberry coulis. Served warm, the sliced apples
were generously layered and as we finished up,
Johnny Cash was being played through the speakers.
Open until 2:00 AM on most evenings, Coco J’Adore
is a party from start to finish. You simply cannot
take yourself too seriously while having so much fun.
Just as they set out to do, Mr. Costa’s restaurant does
in fact please the “well heeled traveler” and everyone
else who enters his world. On their website in fact, they
state that their goal is to “transport you to a midnight
in Paris where you can expect the unexpected.” They
succeeded in doing just that. Vive la France!
