Neighbor News
The Legendary Barney Greengrass
IN A LEAGUE OF THEIR OWN, BARNEY GREENGRASS DELIGHTS FOR OVER A CENTURY
Restaurant Critique
Barney Greengrass
541 Amsterdam Avenue New York, NY
Pamela Goldman
There is only one connoisseur of food in the world who shipped smoked sturgeon to President Franklin Delano Roosevelt for Thanksgiving in 1939. That was Mr. Barney Greengrass of NYC. Today’s review is dedicated to the restaurant and the master of smoked fish that goes by that very name.
Founded in 1908 by Barney himself, the family fortune is based on one premise: to operate a “food store for those who demand the best.” First located in Harlem, grandfather Greengrass moved his store to its present location in 1929 on Amsterdam Avenue, Manhattan’s Upper West Side. His popularity grew and he became known as the “Sturgeon King.”
Walking into this legendary locale is like being transported back almost a century. The antique white porcelain enamel showcases, high ceilings and original counters are so filled with years and years of pure good luck. Still a family business, now run by grandson Gary, they have stayed true to Barney’s original intention: to cater to those who demand the best with the finest food available.
The late, beloved Anthony Bourdain recommended Barney Greengrass as “the best breakfast in the universe!” In 2006 it won the James Beard award for being, “An American classic.” Let me dive right in by saying there is an incredible vibe you feel as soon as you enter the front door. Everyone working there has a jolly smile, playing and joking as they schmooze with the clientele. A good time for everyone.
While at our table, Gary Greengrass introduced himself. He was so warm and generous and we had a fun chat. With a big smile on his face it was as though he was channeling his grandfather’s joie de vivre.
We began our meals with a generous serving of matzoh ball soup. The matzoh ball was light and seasoned well. My dining partner noted the depth of flavor in the broth. It didn’t need any salt or pepper. It was perfect. As we finished our first course we overheard the tail end of a story from nearby customers, “He was Polish and the other Litvak.” They began to laugh.
Our waiter Anastasios, of Greek extraction, was so friendly and efficient. He then served us our main course. Mine was an open-faced Pastrami Reuben with home made Russian dressing, sauerkraut, and melted Swiss cheese smothered on top. My partner had a traditional pastrami sandwich on seeded rye bread with mustard. We also shared a plate of Greengrass’ famous perfectly crisp latkes with sour cream and apple sauce.
After tasting our main course it was easy to see why Barney Greengrass had a 12 year run in Zagat’s as being the number one delicatessen in NYC. I can only speak for myself. When I took my first bite of the Pastrami Reuben, I was elevated to such heights of pleasure; reaching a whole new level of enlightenment. Truly the taste of a masterpiece. I didn’t see it coming…
Although the pastrami was deeply satisfying, this place is known for its fish, and we couldn’t leave “The Sturgeon King” without grabbing some smoked fish to take home. For two days, we feasted on rich, moist sturgeon and silky Nova Scotia salmon. My partner exclaimed that the nova was the best he had ever tasted, and I had to agree.
When we left the restaurant, we were floored by the entire experience. “The best of all possible worlds.” Thank you Gary for upholding the traditions of your grandfather. Everyone should experience Barney Greengrass and the quality of the food they provide. Really, no one can compete, not even Zabar’s. They are truly in a league of their own.