Palma...a hidden gem in the West Village NYC

Restaurant Critique

Palma

28 Cornelia Street New York, NY

Pamela Goldman

Photos: Gerald Feldman

Patch.com

It pains me so to write a critique of the restaurant

Palma, when words cannot do it justice. Situated on the

quiet Cornelia Street in the West Village, it’s a place

where dreams and reality intersect. Upon arrival, we were

led into the main dining room. Surrounded by floor to

ceiling vines, red and gold roses, the room was covered

by a vaulted skylight. The rustic wood tables, exposed

brick wall and the candle lights added to this heavenly

yet down to earth atmosphere. When we arrived, it was daylight.

The room was lit up by the sky. But as the night folded

in, the reflections on the skylight were sparkling making the ceiling

a starlit mirage. Not for a moment did we feel we were in the

city but rather a large veranda of a countryside estate.

The only time the “real world” entered the picture was when a

large table across the room started discussing politics and a

man yelled out, “Trump is the death of democracy!!!” My

eyes and my partners’ locked. We could neither laugh or smile.

Dismissing this interruption of the serene evening, we

went on to reassemble our thoughts of this room as a Garden

of Eden without the apple of temptation. There was no downfall

of mankind in our future!

After careful consideration, Palma does not advertise. It’s a

word of mouth institution. They prefer people to discover it on

their own and revel in this secret, romantic setting. The charm

of the restaurant creates it’s own special magic. The food is

brought to you from an array of generations of family recipes.

Everything we ate was of the highest standards from start to

finish and portions are on the large side so expect to pass around

and taste the bounty.

We shared two appetizers. The first was Fiori di Zucca. These

were zucchini blossoms stuffed with buffalo ricotta and fresh

herbs served on a bed of arugula and tomato concasse. Cloud-

like and sensual we were sad to see these disappear as we

gradually pleasured all of our senses. The second appetizer was

less dreamy yet just as creative. Cavofiore alla Siciliana which

were sauteed cauliflower florets with caramelized onions,

currants, pine nuts and breadcrumbs. Less ephemeral than the

stuffed zucchini flowers, this dish had it’s own hearty appeal

with the layering of flavors, textures and tones.

Next were our main courses. I ordered one of the dishes that

insiders return for time and time again: Papparadelle alla

Spezzatino d’Agnello. This was pappardelle pasta with slow

roasted lamb, black olives, rosemary and pecorino sardo.

The lamb braised in a touch of in red wine as well as other

secret ingredients was plentiful and being layered with the

black olives, rosemary and cheese, elevated this dish beyond

all expectations into a highly sophisticated flavor profile.

Another win!

My partner ordered Spaghetti all’Astice. This was artisan

pasta from Gragnano, half of a Maine lobster and vesuvian

vine tomato sauce. The flavoring of the sauce was toned

down with respect to allowing one to savor the sweet natural

flavor of the lobster. Yet, amidst this dish there were hints of

heat as highlights. As fresh as lobster could be, my partner

whispered in my ear that this was the best meal he had all season.

For dessert I had Palma’s special cannoli, which was filled

with buffalo ricotta made with orange blossom, pure vanilla

and candied pistachios, served in a light crispy shell. My partner

had the Torta di Ricotta: Southern Italian cheesecake which was

gluten free, made with buffalo ricotta and served with a fresh

blueberry compote. As we joyfully finished off our meal, the

room kept erupting with laughter. A love of life filled the air.

We left stunned by the beauty and culinary heights of Palma’s

secret garden. Salut!!!