Seafood delights at The Mermaid Inn!

Restaurant Critique
The Mermaid Inn
570 Amsterdam Avenue New York, NY
Pamela Goldman
Photos: Gerald Feldman
Patch.com

On a chilly night, late in January 2020, my partner and I went across town through a moonlit Central Park to the Upper West Side. Starting out as an easy, breezy evening...this ended up being the theme of the night. Upon our arrival at The Mermaid Inn, a seafood restaurant extraordinaire (one of several in a small chain), we were greeted by the delightful manager, Andrew, who later discussed with us his pride in the quality of the food, and service team for which he is responsible.

Impressed, the moment we crossed the street to see the facade as white-washed planks of wood and then once again inside by the curated photography collection of seaside and boating scenes, we could immediately picked up on the vibe in the restaurant. The buzz in the air was that everyone was super excited and having a grand ole time.

In style, it was rustic and casual while at the same time being classic with elegant simplicity. Although the restaurant was packed, the tables had enough distance between them so you could easily hear your conversations. No pretensions were to be found here. Candlelit tables and ceiling fans which were installed to keep a slight breeze in the air, The Mermaid Inn was far from stuffy. Although it seemed to us brand new, the restaurant has actually been at that location since 2009. The first restaurant in the chain, located in the East Village, opened in 2003.

Without any superfluous details, just a piece of driftwood, the essence of the restaurant reminded me of simpler days when in my youth we spent summers on Fire Island and I wandered for endless hours collecting sea glass.

For appetizers, my dining partner ordered the New England Clam Chowder, which was served in a red enamel mug. Smokey in flavor due to the apparent addition of bacon, the soup was really rich. With it’s creamy texture, the small mug size filled him up pretty quickly. I had a ½ dozen oysters with each one representing a different region of the USA. Some from the East Coast and some from the West Coast. I swallowed each down in their own juices noting the differences in flavors and textures.

Afterwards, the main course arrived: The Lobster Roll. The bread on which it was served was a warm brioche bun. The lobster meat portion was huge and done simply with an aioli sauce and possibly some Old Bay seasoning. This was chilled, and piled high on the brioche bun. One had to take a fork and eat it from the top before picking it up in fear of it possibly landing on your lap. Served with an enormous pile of fries, we also entertained a side serving of grilled Brussel sprouts with candied pecans.

Complimentary dark chocolate puddings were served with a dollop of whipped cream which ended the evening of dining in a restaurant which had an effortless couth to it. If you are a seafood lover, put The Mermaid Inn at the top of your list. The menu also has some meat choices so that everyone is happy. I feel inclined to note that on their website, they clearly state that all of their food comes from sustainable resources. That’s what I like: food with a planetary conscience...no joke intended.