Philly Inquirer's Food Critic Visited Delaware County, Here's Where He Ate

Craig LaBan, the well-known food critic for the Philadelphia Inquirer, recently paid a visit to Delaware County, where he tried some of the area's best restaurants.

Here's where he ate, and what he thought. (Click here to read his full review of Delco's top restaurants.)

MEDIA

Tom's Dim Sum
What LeBan says: "There aren’t many suburban restaurants that bring the bold regional flavors of today’s Chinatown better than this Tom’s, where even the fried rice is hard to stop eating."

Bittersweet Kitchen
What LeBan says: "The savvy weekend crowds line up on Orange Street for the hearty, scratch-cooked brunches at this funky deep-blue cafe, which draws families (thanks to its communal toy box) and fans of all ages for its sweet and savory offerings."

Yia It's All Greek To Me
What LeBan says: "There suddenly are several new quick-serve Greek concepts in the Philly suburbs, and this bright newcomer wrapped in Aegean blue island imagery is one of the most appealing."

Sterling Pig Brewery
What Le Ban says: "The BBQ and pizza kitchen struggled early on, but I’ve heard enthusiastic recent reports, especially about the brisket and smoked wings."

Pinocchio's Beer Garden
What Le Ban says: "I come for one of the best beer gardens and bottleshops in the 'burbs, with over 1,000 varieties to go in mix-and-match six-packs as well as 25 rotating taps, available to go in growlers or crowlers."

Brick and Brew
What Le Ban says:
"But it’s really the drink program that most impressed here, with one of the best whiskey collections in the burbs, serious cocktails and an outstanding list of craft beers on draft."

Margart Kuo's
What Le Ban says:
"We come to hear the gong announce what is still the region’s best Peking duck, carved and wrapped in fresh pancakes tableside."

Iron Hill Brewery And Restaurant
What Le Ban says:
"They're comfortable and accessible, with food that's generally better than at most chains, even if the huge menu sometimes panders to trends (pumpkin sriracha wings; dandan noodles) and falls back on too much sweetness (ahi tuna salad) for my taste. I've enjoyed the fish tacos and jaegerschnitzel."

UPPER DARBY

Sa-Bai-Dee
What LeBan says: "Don’t miss the tom zap soup, Laos noodles with pork, whole fish in spicylime sauce, fresh house sausage or som tum Laos kicked-up to maximum flavor volume with fermented crab."

Little Saigon
What LeBan says: "The cozy pink dining room of one of the region’s longest running Vietnamese restaurants still makes some of the very best spring rolls, with crackly rice paper crusts and meaty, mushroom-flecked fillings."

El Custatleco Pupuseria Y Restaurant
What LeBan says: "...the griddled round masa cakes called pupusas are a prime feature at this pleasant BYOB, named for the home region of owner Marisela Mancia in central El Salvador... But the menu has many other worthy Central American treasures, including a full Mexican menu, Honduran-style baleadas (similar to quesadillas), Salvadoran pastelitos meat pies with flaky crusts turned vivid orange with achiote."

Inka Wall
What LeBan says:
"It opened initially as a street-level BYOB, where first-time chef and restaurateur Beatrice Loayza showed a light touch on aji pepper spice, but a solid home cook’s grasp of traditional dishes like ceviche (must order ahead!), pollo à la brasa, and flaky empanadas worthy of a visit."

Fanta International African Restaurant
What LeBan says:
"...I loved the homecooked (albeit sometimes pokey) quality of these the hearty and rustic dishes, but especially the flavorful Senegalese chicken smothered in onions over jollof rice that came with a housemade hot sauce that was so fiery and fresh, it made my scalp tingle."

Pica's Restaurant
What LeBan says: "There's a unique character to the crusty-edges of this pan-baked dough, which is pleasantly chewy without being heavy like a deeper dish pie, and is ideal beneath the sauce-topped cheese and heat-charred crumbles of sausage with fresh mushrooms. Locals of a certain age order it by 'the shirt box.'"

FOLSOM TO CHADD'S FORD

The Original Clam Tavern (LaBan named this establishment a "favorite pick")
What LeBan says: "...nothing says tradition quite like the signature baked clams, the juicy middlenecks roasted whole in a distinctive steel tray beneath lightly browned Italian seasonings and a tangy, mysterious red dot."

Brick and Brew
What Le Ban says:
"But it’s really the drink program that most impressed here, with one of the best whiskey collections in the burbs, serious cocktails and an outstanding list of craft beers on draft."

Charlie's Hamburger
What Le Ban says:
"There’s a sense of timeless wonder to a counter seat at Charlie’s — the Delco institution that’s been serving hamburgers and shakes since 1935. It has occupied this no-frills shack in Folsom since 1986, when then-owner Bernard 'Bunny' McDonald moved it from the original location in Springfield."

Il Granaio
What Le Ban says:
"Grilled polenta, tender octopus, and a fine take on classic rigatoni alla Norma with melty chunks of eggplant were hits, as were the boldly spiced shrimp fra diavolo and zesty chicken Scarpiello with sausage and hot peppers."

L'Angolo West
What Le Ban says:
"...from excellent braised duck pappardelle to deftly grilled seafood (try the shrimp over zucchini puree), garlicky artichokes, fresh ravioli (we loved the special stuffed with sausage and broccoli rabe), and a stellar

pork chop Milanese topped with salad that ranks among the region’s best."

Cajun Kates
What Le Ban says:
"two vets of New Orleans restaurants are turning-out some of most legitimate Louisiana cooking in the region, from hearty jambalaya to crawfish pies, dark gumbos du jour, a legitimate muffuletta, deep-fried mac and cheese (stuffed with andouille) as well as pralines and beignetsfor dessert."

The Apple Walnut Café
What LeBan says: "The main attraction here, though, is the namesake apple walnut pie, a hybrid cheesecake baked into a pie with walnuts and apples that is worthy of the trip alone."

Viman Thai Cuisine
What LeBan says: "...the food has a vivid freshness, with just the right level of spice and undertow of funk to let you know the kitchen is crafting dishes from the heart."

ELSEWHERE IN DELAWARE COUNTY

2SP Brewing Co.

What LeBan says: "... this ambitious production brewery from the owners of Two Stones Pub and former Iron Hill prize master, brewer Bob Barrar, has produced some of the region's best imperial stouts (like the GABF and Brewvitational-winning "the Russian") as well as quaffacle canned favorites like Delco Lager and 2SPils that channel Aston's blue-collar spirit..."

Avenue Deli
What LeBan says: "A recent visit showed fewer Italian-fusion flavors, but still a focus on homey creativity, including a pastrami spice-roasted chicken sandwich and a lovely tomato-goat cheese tart that struck the perfect tone of casual comfort for brunch after visiting Lansdowne’s lively farmers market."

Jimmy John's Pipin' Hot Sandwiches
What LeBan says: "The hot dogs still have that signature snap (love it with cooked onions), the onion rings and shakes are fantastic, and the model train displays still mesmerize children just as they have for decades."

Penn's Woods Winery
What LeBan says: "A cab and cab fanc blend called Due Amici (collaboration with Ristorante Panorama) is one of the best local reds I tasted this year."

Terrain Garden Café
What LeBan says: "Take a seat in the greenhouse chic ambiance - especially during the hopping brunch hours - and graze a farmhouse platter of house charcuterie and local Doe Run cheeses, thick-cut French toast topped with tea-poached peaches, raw corn salad or roasted chicken over melons dusted with crispy quinoa."

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