A Well-Known Food Critic Visited Willow Grove, And This Is Where He Ate

WILLOW GROVE, PA — Craig LaBan, the well-known food critic for the Philadelphia Inquirer, recently paid a visit to Montgomery County, where he tried some of the area's best restaurants, including several in the Willow Grove area.

Here's where he ate, and what he thought (See here to read his full review of Montgomery County's top restaurants).

WILLOW GROVE

Pho and Beyond, Willow Grove

"The pho is deservedly the signature draw, its outstanding broth full of beefy, natural flavor, tender meat and snappy noodles. The spicy pho satay, however, is my go-to bowl, with a boldly spiced and aromatic broth that also is filled with bundles of thinly shaved rib-eye that draw extra flavor and tenderness from a special marinade."

Weinrich Bakery, Willow Grove

"Weinrich's reliably produces the kind of baked sweets a Willow Grove kid can grow up on."

HATBORO AND HORSHAM

Farm and Fisherman Tavern

"Can real food - seasonal, local, scratch-made, and creatively presented - survive in the suburbs in a way that feels accessible to a wide audience weaned on chains? The answer is yes."

Persian Grill

"Try any of the great kebab platters (koubideh; joojeh; lamb chops; Bareh, Dandeh and Soltani), the funk aged garlic and “five-year-old relish” (torshi), or refreshing faloodeh shirazi Persian ice for dessert."

PLYMOUTH MEETING

Woojung

"There are often premium fish behind the counter for aficionados seeking live scallop sashimi, or a whole mackerel served three ways — sashimi, ngiri over rice, and with its dramatically presented bones fried into an edible skeleton cracker. "

NORRISTOWN AREA

Corropolese Bakery and Deli, East Norriton

"A Sicilian-thick rectangle of pan-roasted dough smeared with a thick layer of zesty tomato sauce, best eaten at room temp."

Eve's Lunch

"Hand-cut onion tasted extra sweet and crunchy (who needs iceberg, anyway?), with a juicy tomato boost elevated by a finishing touch of dried oregano that gave this zep’s flavor a powerfully satisfying resonance."

KING OF PRUSSIA

Mistral

"Riffs on tartare, with warm lamb and raw tuna, as well as a Thai-spiced grilled calamari show Mistral’s edgy side, while a standout burger with bacon jam, pineapple-chili-glazed chicken wings and a flatiron steak with potato pave suit more traditional tastes."

Creed's Seafood and Steaks

"Rich lobster bisque, no-nonsense lump crab cakes and excellent steaks..."

Pin Wei

"Authentic Sichuan cuisine, from the sesame-rich dandan noodles to dumplings in orange oil that simmer with numbing anise spice."

Choolaah Indian BBQ

"Tandoor meets Chipotle in this colorful and contemporary Indian twist on the quick-serve trend."

Legal Sea Foods

"Classic New England fish-house fare, from creamy chowder to fried belly clams, simply grilled fish and steamed whole lobsters that also come removed from the shell and stuffed into a crock with buttery seafood beneath a pile of crushed Ritz crackers."

Davio's

"The prime-grade “natural-aged” New York strip was one the best steaks I ate all year. The Italian fare is better than average."

CHELTENHAM, ABINGTON AREA

Dubu, Elkins Park

"Don’t miss the mandoo or japchae and cold naengmyun noodles, excellent beef bulgogi, as well as a spicy pork variation."

Borough Brewhouse, Jenkintown

"The team behind Revolution Taco turning out global small plates that are affordable and fun for beer-drinking nibbles, with dry-aged beef meatballs, fried chicken bao buns, some outstanding empanadas, and flatbread tossed with goat cheese and merguez."

Southern Belle, Jenkintown

"You’ll need a cold glass of brew to tame Thomas’ version of Nashville hot chicken that’s exclusive to this location. This buttermilk-fried bird is set over a thick slice of bread smeared with smoked paprika rémoulade and then glazed in the red shine of a chile-Sriracha oil so spicy that one customer needed to take his shirt off."

Banh Street, Abington

"Crusty baguette sandwiches is made warm to order with fresh ingredients that pop: pickled carrots and daikon, plumes of cilantro, creamy liver pâté (a supplemental add-on, but essential), full-flavored proteins, and punny names (Simon Le Bánh garlic chicken; Al Báhndy spicy rib eye)."

HUNTINGDON VALLEY

Ben and Irv's

"Golden beads of chicken fat glistening atop its natural broth and a matzo ball that was the perfect balance of firmness and fluff."

LANSDALE AREA

Stove and Tap

"Heartier indulgences are the draw, including a juicy fried chicken with fresh Parker House rolls; a smoked chicken pot pie; and a nearly perfect double-pattied ode to the Big Mac, but with short rib-brisket patties and secret sauce that are so much better. The burger is one of the best in the ‘burbs."

Pumpernick's Deli, North Wales

"Crispy-edged potato pancakes — the centers a nice blend of pureed and chunky textures — and a mushroom barley soup flecked with tiny bits of carrot."

Round Guys Brewing

"The heavy menu can be “round guy”-friendly to a fault, with a cheesy chopped Italian sausage-ground beef meat bomb (the Hasselhoff), myriad spaetzle riffs, and a local Bespoke Bacon platter worth indulging."

Backyard Beans

"One of the region’s rising coffee roasters graduated this spring from a wholesale-only warehouse to a bright café space downtown, where regulars come for the boldly roasted “Punch In the Face,” a chocolaty organic Honduran that’s become popular iced on nitro."

Boardroom Spirits

"Vodkas infused with cranberry, ginger, and citrus are prized by local bartenders for their natural flavors without the typical added sweetness."

CONSHOHOCKEN

El Limon

"A collection of pleasant but utilitarian dining rooms paired with consistent taqueria fare built on fresh ingredients, bold flavors and traditional ideas."

Spring Mill Cafe

"The food remains classic French with a homecooked style (and an occasional North African touch)."

Bar Luca

"Authentic-minded dishes, like the wild boar ragù; farro salad; thin-crusted Tuscan-style pizzas; and bucatini with fresh pecorino, chunks of bacon, and Calabrian peppers."

Blackfish

"Delicate ravioli stuffed with English peas in brown butter to a tile fish caught by the chef himself over basmati and Madras curry sauce."

Conshohocken Brewing Co.

"The original is...a thirsty cyclist's delight, since it's perched right on the Schuylkill River Trail. The Bridgeport location is a full-on brewpub with a beer-garden view of the river and big menu, including fun tacos and the loaded "Prof" Wagyu burger."

LAFAYETTE HILL

Ye Olde Ale House

"Hot beef sandwiches hand-carved from a huge roast sitting in a pool of juices behind the counter; a seat alongside friendly Lafayette Hillers at the big wrap-around bar for Eagles games; and the hot beef sandwiches."

Persion Grill

"Try any of the great kebab platters (koubideh; joojeh; lamb chops; Bareh, Dandeh and Soltani), the funk aged garlic and “five-year-old relish” (torshi), or refreshing faloodeh shirazi Persian ice for dessert."

HARLEYSVILLE AND BLUE BELL

The Butcher and Barkeep

"A neighborhood-friendly menu with bold flavors that adds up to an admirably affordable experience for the quality, with fresh takes on (fairly large) small plates almost entirely under $15 (the confit of rabbit hits $17), rotating meat and cheese boards, sandwiches built with scratch meats (house-corned beef for the Reuben), and a frequent Southern flair, from the decadent shrimp and grits with tasso ham and andouille pepper cream, to tender St. Louis ribs and a convincing shrimp gumbo over dirty rice."

Radice

"Slow-cooked pork, beef and veal ribs are favorites from a previous visit, as well as the elegantly thin-layered eggplant Parm."

Blue Bell Inn

"A juicy burger, flavorful lobster roll in citrus aioli, and crisp seafood wedge salad topped with huge shrimp cocktail and lumps of crab were all satisfying."

ROYERSFORD

Han Dynasty

"Han Chiang gave Center City Philly a thrilling wake-up to true Sichuan spice at his original Old City spot-and helped spark the trend towards more authentic regional Chinese cooking in the region."

POTTSTOWN

Henry's Cafe and Fine Groceries

"Sweet corn and bits of slab bacon from Foresta’s Country Meat Market in Phoenixville anchored a summer chowder brimming with sweet crab. The fish and chips he started making at his first location, at a flea market in Limerick, are still a coveted special."

Manatawny Still Works

"The limited-edition series of unique small batch whiskeys is especially worth seeking out."

Sly Fox Tastin' Room

"Best to keep it simple with pizzas and pork sliders at the "Tastin' Room" at the Pottstown brewery, where the Pikeland Pils, Royal Weisse, Saison VOS and O'Reilly's Stout are as fresh as they get."

AMBLER AREA

Cantina Feliz, Fort Washington

"One of the region’s most satisfying Nuevo Mexican dining experiences, blending a colorful, casual space with outgoing service, excellent tequila cocktails, myriad fresh guacamole variations and a menu built to please a broad audience."

555 Lagiola, Ambler

"A traditional array of tapas, from platters of rich jamon Ibérico sliced to order off the bone, to imported Spanish cheeses, stellar octopus, tender garlicky shrimp, and one of the best paellas I’ve eaten in the region, rich with the flavors of house-made chorizo, delicately cooked seafood and tender of chicken on the bone."

Po Le Cucina, Lower Gwynedd

"Perfectly moist clams Casino are scented with bacon. Silky pappardelle wrap around braised duck ragù. Le’s osso buco is one of the best I’ve had, the huge shank braised to a sublime tenderness over risotto enriched with veal’s natural gravy."

Southern Belle 2.0, Erdenheim

"Creole flavors with subtle hints of seasonal creativity, from the spice-dusted shrimp over cheesy grits, to zesty okra stew, crispy vegan fritters of black-eyed peas over sautéed eggplant, tender ribs and a meaty crab cake with corn maque choux."

Deterra, Ambler

"Stylish New American menu (featuring) fine homemade pastas (like the silky agnolotti stuffed with braised beef), artisan meat and cheese boards, pizzas, and ambitious seasonal entrées."

Zakes Cakes and Cafe, Fort Washington

"The real menu gems have an unexpected Asian flair, including the Saigon rolls, Vietnamese beef and mango salad, and a Thai salmon salad with peanut sauce."

Karamoor, Fort Washington

"Award-winning takes on Bordeaux grapes like cab franc and petit verdot, merlot and blended Meritage."

Arpeggio, Spring House
"I favor the Middle Eastern flavors that speak to Khalil’s Egyptian roots, especially the sesame-crusted falafel and baba ghanoush on the combo platter, flaky spanakopita, and marinated chicken shish taouk skewers served with fresh-baked pita."

Forest and Main, Ambler

"Some of the region's most lyrical barrel-aged saisons, including some made with wild yeast harvested from cherry blossoms in the front yard, as well as outstanding bitters and IPAs."

Banh Street, Ambler

"Pickled carrots and daikon, plumes of cilantro, creamy liver pâté (a supplemental add-on, but essential), full-flavored proteins, and punny names (Simon Le Bánh garlic chicken; Al Báhndy spicy rib eye)."

Saffron Indian Kitchen, Ambler

"...fluffy-centered samosas, comforting yellow dal, tender bone-in tandoori chicken sizzling over onions on a steel platter, and the wafer-like curl of a masala dosa with funky sambar and coconut chutney dips for a convincing South Indian touch."

MULTIPLE LOCATIONS THROUGHOUT MONTCO

Iron Hill

"(They) balance well-crafted core beers with creative specials from talented individual brewers...I've enjoyed the fish tacos and jaegerschnitzel."

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