Houston's Best Fried Chicken? This Indian Restaurant Just Might Have It

Fried chicken is in my mind a delicacy, and when it's done right, it can change your life. Most everyone knows about the benefits of brining a bird by now, and free-range, organic chickens are available everywhere. But no matter the quality of the ingredients, the cooking is the thing, and there's an awful lot of dry, greasy, bland fried chicken being served in restaurants.

Not so at Himalaya Restaurant, the eatery serving Indian and Pakistani cuisine in a strip mall off of I-59 near Hillcroft. Yes, an Indian restaurant is serving some of the best fried chicken in Houston; in fact, I count it among the best I've ever had, period.

When this chicken comes to the table, it's visually appealing, always a good start. Six or seven pieces, neatly arranged on a platter and sprinkled with parsley. The aroma is immediately evident; a good nose can detect some spice; is it cumin? Fingers are used here, and plenty of napkins, because this is a juicy bird. Pick up a piece — I began with a breast — and the crispiness of the coating is remarkable. It's thin and light, but full of flavor. Yes, typical Indian flavors are here, but there's nothing heavy-handed. The chef knows how to use spices in a way that complements and enhances food, a skill that I often find lacking.

That chef is Kaiser Lashkari, who, along with his wife, owns Himalaya. He is a personable and gregarious man, though at first he might seem gruff and offstandish. This is more the result of his respect for his guests' dining privacy than anything else, and once you get to know Lashkari, you'll appreciate his wit, dedication, and kindness.

His restaurant was recently featured on Anthony Bourdain's "Parts Unknown" on CNN, and Lashkari told me that the exposure has put him on the national map. "We are getting a lot of travelers to Houston coming in telling me that they saw us on Bourdain's show; they come in for lunch or dinner, and it's been a great mix of people from around the U.S."

Back to the bird. Pick a drumstick or thigh up with your hand, and bite a piece off. The tender, rich meat — the brining in buttermilk does wonders — combines magically with the crisp coating, and together create something so satisfying that you'll smile when chewing. Dip your next bite in the mustard and tamarind sauce Lashkari makes to accompany the chicken, and you'll smile wider.

The fried chicken at Himalaya can serve two easily, though I have no doubt that many orders are consumed entirely by hungry individuals. It's really that good.

l