Off the Vine: A Texas Producer Gives an Ancient Grape Some Loving Care

"The history of Aglianico is incredible,” says Antonio Capaldo, chairman of Feudi di San Gregorio. “The history of the wine is much newer.” Capaldo, who heads a winery in southern Italy that grows some ancient varieties, knows whereof he speaks, because his team produces a lot of Aglianico.

The grape was cultivated by the Phoenicians and sent to other countries and regions by the ancient Greeks. Popes protected it, and it was used as a blending agent during the unfortunate phylloxera plague. And it's grown in Texas.

I tasted a Texas-grown Aglianico this week, the 2012 vintage from Duchman Family Winery, a Hill County establishment that's been around since 2006. The grapes hail from the Texas High Plains AVA, and are grown in the Oswald Vineyard by John and Dina-Marie Oswald. I like what has been put into the bottle.

A friend and I opened the 2012 and poured it immediately, small amounts in large glasses. The nose was fine: a touch of dark fruit, including heated plums, plus a bit of eucalyptus and spice. Pleasant, not overwhelming, though the alcohol, at 14.8 percent, is clearly evident.

We tasted without food, and enjoyed its balance. I expected wild, harsh tannins, but found none. An acidity dancing harmoniously with the fruit is observed here, along with bay leaf (a hint only) and a touch of clove.

Next, we paired the Duchman with some sweet Italian sausage, and, as is often the case when one pairs wine with food, our experience moved into another dimension. The sausage was low on hot pepper, but each bite brought fleeting heat, something that the wine loved. This Aglianico, dark in color and aged in neutral oak for 18-24 months, became much more satisfying with our food. Its finish deepened and matured.

The 2012 is 100 percent Aglianico, and the grapes are grown at 3,300 feet in soil consisting of loam over clay, and limestone. You can order it for $25 from the winery, or ask your favorite merchant for a bottle.

— Image of Duchman Family Winery sign courtesy Peary Photography