Dish Of The Week: This Corn Gnocchi Will Leave You Craving More

First of all, cotija is always a good thing. The Mexican cheese is salty in the right way, and it's delicious on tacos, burritos, beans, or salads. I have a block of it at all times in my refrigerator, and use it often. Then, gnocchi. Gnocchi is also a good thing, a good thing that can be great. Then espelette and cilantro. Put those four things together and you've got the makings of something special.

And that's exactly what you can get at Riel now, something special. It's corn gnocchi, and it's the Midtown Patch Dish of the Week. I ordered it on Saturday, and I'll have it again soon ... it's that good.

I said cotija, and this dish has it, but in fondue form, a warm cotija fondue that serves as the foundation for the rest of the ingredients. Take your spoon — this is definitely a spoon dish — and taste the fondue first, before you do anything else. Mine was rich, salty (at a fine level), slightly tangy, and I would be perfectly happy drinking it. You don't have to, however, and once you taste the gnocchi, you'll want to slow down, to make this course last.

That gnocchi. Formed with care, full of rich corn taste ... think tamale or a corn tortilla, among the best you've had. Their crisp exterior provides a pleasant texture, then their interior melts in your mouth. I ate these gnocchi one at a time, with effort, because the urge to magnify the flavor is a strong one. (I wouldn't blame you if you chose to put three or four of the gnocchi in you mouth at a time ... and would understand.)

The first "full" spoonful of this dish, one containing the cheese fondue and the corn and the gnocchi and the espelette, will be, I predict, one of the best things you've had in a while. The myriad textures and flavors mingle, deepen, pop, linger. The micro greens add a singing brightness, the corn a hearty depth. Aesthetically, it's a beautiful dish, and your palate will sense that in more than a few ways.

I shared my gnocchi with someone, and though I like to share, next time I visit Riel I'll reserve all of this dish for myself. Ryan Lachaine, the chef and co-owner, has put together, since opening in January, something exciting and promising, something welcome here.