Valentine's Day 2017 in Houston: Here's Where You Should Eat on the 14th

I'm of mixed mind about dining out on February 14.

I have some friends who scoff at the idea; they belittle the "sad little couples who don't celebrate their love every day of the year" and make a point of boycotting the holiday. While I don't share their cynicism, I do adhere to the philosophy that every meal should be a celebration.

Therefore, here's my take on going out on the day set aside to celebrate the third-century Roman saint: Do what makes you feel good. That could mean sitting at a sushi bar with a bottle of sake and some toro, taking your place at a wooden picnic bench and dining on brisket and pulled pork, or spending the evening surrounded by flowers and romantic music at a haute-cuisine palace. Love is a many splendored thing.

With that in mind, I've put together a list of restaurants in the Houston area that will appeal to cupids of all sorts. It's an eclectic and diverse roster, both cuisine- and ambience-wise. You can wear a pair of shorts to one of these places, and a tuxedo to another. Above all, though, the food served at every place on the list is worthy of your attention. No matter what you do on the 14th, try to remember that all you need is love (no matter the form it takes). All of my selections have tables available, but some are quickly filling their reservations list, so make your choice and book soon.

Let's start with wild game and a beautiful, rustically romantic atmosphere. That means Rainbow Lodge. If you want to close your eyes and be transported from the concrete expanses of Houston's highway system to the grounds of a fishing lodge in Montana, go here. The lodge is serving lunch and dinner on Valentine's Day — open menu at lunch, four-course tasting for dinner for $89 a person. If you like smoked duck bread, seas scallops, and snapper, book your table today.

From Montana to Argentina, and to Sal y Pimienta. Steak and Malbec (with some Tannat thrown in for good measure) are the bywords here, and if you and your special other love a great rib eye, then I can recommend this family-run restaurant in City Centre with no reservations. Gianfranco Percovich and his wife, Maria, have assembled a great team (both front and back of house), a wonderful wine list, and a fine menu. On the 14th, you can choose from three options for dinner, ranging from $125 a couple (three courses) to $165 per couple (four-course meal, with glasses of sparkling and rosé).

Next, there's Roost, one of my favorite places in the Houston area. Chef Kevin Naderi's quaint restaurant on Fairview serves food perfect for a young couple (and young at heart) in a casual yet comfortable atmosphere. Small tables, small dining room, but big on flavor. Naderi's Valentine's Day set menu? Three courses with a glass of sparkling for $60 a person, certainly a bargain. You can choose from dishes including Oysters Rockefeller, grilled octopus salad, shrimp and grits, and the restaurant's famous Coffee and Donut Holes.

Let's go casual now — and here's where the shorts come in. In a strip mall at the intersection of 59 and Hillcroft is a jewel of the Houston-area doing scene. I'm referring to Himalaya, owner and chef Kaiser Lashkari's Indian and Pakistani restaurant that is as casual and wonderful as you can get. (It's BYOB, too, so there's that.) This place is perfect for vegetarians, and also serves some of the best fried chicken in the city. Plastic tablecloths notwithstanding, you'll swoon over Lashkari's saag paneer and special chicken fried steak.

Now, for the tuxedo (not required, but you'll certainly wow your lover if you decide to wear one): Book a table a Tony's for attentive service, beautiful flowers and tables, and some of Houston's best food. Kate McLean, the restaurant's first-ever female executive chef, is producing exciting cuisine, the wine list is exhaustive and appropriate, and, well, the dining room is the place to see and be seen in Houston. Three seatings are available for the 14th: 5:30 pm ($85 per person); 7:15 p.m. ($135 a person); and 9:30 ($85 a person). Each seating offers three courses plus desert.

If you live in The Woodlands (or even of you don't, because this eatery is worth the drive,) Cureight is the place to be on the 14th. Chef Austin Simmons has set up a laboratory of sorts in Hubbell & Hudson Bistro, and his menu is inventive and playful. The small, intimate dining room is a great setting for your hushed and romantic dinner, where you can indulge in tender short rib, foie gras, caviar, and pork belly. The tasting menu I had there was one of the better evenings I experienced in a Houston-area restaurant last year.

Finally, if you want to spend an evening in the Bronx, book your Italian Cupid's feast at Arthur Ave. Chef William Wright runs the kitchen here, and it's humming along well. Think Sunday Gravy (slow-braised meats in a red tomato sauce), chicken parm, and risotto. The pizzas are worthwhile — try the Fra Diavola or the Siciliana — and the wine list is full of Italian selections from diverse regions. It can be a bit noisy in the dining room, but no one ever confused the Bronx for Greenwich, Conn.

No matter how you celebrate Valentine's Day, remember some flowers — they never go out of style.

— Photo of Bobby Flay and Roost chef Kevin Naderi courtesy Roost.