Restaurants & Bars

Critically-Acclaimed Gowanus Restaurant Shutters After 3 Years

Freek's Mill, which landed a two-star review in the New York Times, closed this week after three of its four partners left the eatery.

Freek's Mill closed after three years this week.
Freek's Mill closed after three years this week. (GoogleMaps)

GOWANUS, BROOKLYN — A new critically-acclaimed restaurant in Gowanus has closed after just three years this week.

Freek's Mill, which opened in the corner spot on 285 Nevins St. in 2016, had its last night open on Wednesday, Eater reported. The seasonal, small-plates restaurant couldn't make it work after three of the four partners who opened the eatery left the business, owners told Eater.

“The product was really good, and it was a great restaurant,"owner J.T. Stewart said. "Then eventually, all of those operating partners parted ways with us for one reason or another."

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The eatery had been run by manager and partner Maxime Giordani, with Chef Chad Shaner leading the kitchen and and partner Alex Alan working as wine director.

Stewart, who also runs a construction company full time, said he tried to replace the partners as they left, but was eventually left running things on his own. He replaced Shaner with Daniel Kang and found a new sommelier when Alan left, but both ended up leaving for other job opportunities.

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Freek's Mill had gotten the attention of several critics when it first opened.

The eatery was named after an 18th-century mill that once operated on the Gowanus Canal and had a menu that paid homage to farms that used to run in the area, Eater said.

It was given two stars in the New York Times and glowing reviews in several other publications, including GrubStreet and the Village Voice.

There are no signs as to what will open in the space, which is found on the corner of Sackett and Nevins streets.

Eater noted that the closing is one of a few recently in the neighborhood, including Nargis Cafe in Park Slope, which Patch reported would become a new jazz cafe last week. Longtime gay bar Excelsior also officially shut its doors this week after announcing that it would close back in June.

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