36 Hours in Manhattan's Upper West Side

From West 59th street to West 110th street, between the Hudson River and Central Park West, lies one of Manhattan’s largest, yet most underrated neighborhoods: the Upper West Side. Its residents know its value- heck, the neighborhood is getting a second Trader Joe’s soon (on Columbus Ave between 92nd and 93rd streets. Check out last month’s article by Brendan Krisel)- and though they probably prefer to keep the neighborhood on the quiet side, we’re here to reveal some of its favorites and some of its best kept secrets. Read on for the perfect Upper West Side spring weekend itinerary for everyone; residents of nearby neighborhoods, tourists, and locals alike.

*Commuting around the city can be a real pain. To avoid wasting unnecessary amounts of time on the subway or in an Uber, we’ll explore the neighborhood loosely from top to bottom. This map illustrates all stops, with the first day marked in blue and the second day in yellow. For an interactive version to take with you, click here.*

Day 1

In the Morning

Let’s start with a typical New York breakfast near the northern end of the Upper West Side. With 4.5 stars and only one of four “$” (my favorite combination) on Yelp, Absolute Bagels should satisfy your cravings. People come from all over the city for this little bagel shop with 22 cream cheese options- almost half of which are vegan-friendly tofutti (I recommend the everything bagel with scallion cream cheese). This place is small inside, so have a friend scout out a table while you stand in line. And heads up- it’s cash only!

2788 Broadway between W 107th and W 108th streets

Quick Side Stop

A well-hidden bit of history just a short walk away is the apartment building that Barack Obama called home during his days at Columbia University in 1981. Located on West 109th street between Amsterdam and Columbus Avenues, this stop is for particularly big fans of the 44th U.S. President. The building and unit itself are still actively occupied (by new residents of course) so it is only visitable from street level.

142 W 109th street between Amsterdam and Columbus Avenues

Walk through Riverside Park to The Boat Basin Café

Once you’ve consumed enough carbohydrates to fuel yourself for the day ahead, you’ll be ready to walk over to Riverside Park. Stretching from 59th street to about 129th, the park is in constant competition with Central Park to win over Upper West Siders. The exception being in the warmer months, thanks to Riverside’s namesake view of New Jersey across the Hudson River. (Okay, it’s no Amalfi Coast, but we’re otherwise walking streets perpetually shadow-cast by monstrous industrial buildings). Make a stop at the Sailors and Soldiers Monument (at 89th street), dog runs (105th and 87th streets), or playgrounds (Dinosaur Playground at 97th street, Hippo Playground at 91st , and River Run Playground at 82nd), to wear yourself out before lunch at 79th street.

Here, you’ll find the Boat Basin Café. Open late March through late October (weather permitting), this is the place to catch a bite or share a margarita pitcher. Do so while watching boats in the marina and enjoying a view afforded by the restaurant’s prime location within the remaining walls of the historic boat basin.

On the Hudson River at W 79th street

American Museum of Natural History

What is the Upper West Side without the American Museum of Natural History? Follow your sun-drenched lunch with a leisurely browse of the museum that genuinely holds something for everyone. Enjoy the pay-what-you-wish general admission “price” or an additional fee for admission to any temporary exhibitions such as Our Senses, or the Butterfly Conservatory (open until May 28th). The Hayden Planetarium Space Theatre runs shows every 30 minutes and the rest of the museum is full of its own mysteries to be discovered (my favorites are the Hall of Biodiversity and the Harry Frank Guggenheim Hall of Minerals).

Central Park West at 79th street

Dinner at Jacob’s Pickles

Finally, take a short walk back to Amsterdam Avenue where you can settle down for dinner at Jacob’s Pickles. With comfort food and an extensive drink menu, including a particularly impressive list of beers from across the country, you’re guaranteed a home-y experience here. Additional highlights of Jacob’s include three root beers on tap and the variety of take-away pickle jars… midnight snack anyone?

509 Amsterdam Ave between W 84th and W 85th streets

Day 2

Brunch at Barney Greengrass

As is true for most of New York City, you just can’t run out of restaurants in the Upper West Side. Kick off your second morning at Barney Greengrass, just three blocks north of where you left off last night. This quintessential Jewish deli has an 110-year history that began in Harlem with Barney Greengrass himself. The current location at 87th street isn’t much younger, as its doors have been open since 1929. Mr. Greengrass was known around Harlem as “The Sturgeon King”, hence the abundance of fish on his grandson’s current menu. The most popular side here is a bagel- which is no problem because, let’s be honest, you don’t tire of bagels.

Be sure to note the restaurant’s Passover sabbatical from March 31st-April 7th during which time it will be closed. I suggest taking that time to research the countless TV shows and movies that have been filmed here ;).

541 Amsterdam Ave between W 86th and W 87th streets

Browse around the Grand Bazaar

If you’re lucky enough to be here on a Sunday, don’t miss the Grand Bazaar “antiques, artisans, and edibles” market as you make your way southbound through the neighborhood. This unique market began as a fundraising yard sale and has grown to become the “largest weekly curated market in NYC, that is open all year-round, with over 43,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor space,” according to its website. Furthermore, 100% of vendor rental profits are donated to four carefully selected public schools where over 4,000 local school children benefit from the market’s support.

100 W 77th St between Columbus and Amsterdam Avenues

Head down to Lincoln Center for a Show

If there’s one thing the Upper West Side is notorious for, it’s the neighborhood’s historical epicenter of culture and performing arts at Lincoln Center. Home of 11 world-renowned institutions and organizations such as The Metropolitan Opera, the New York Philharmonic, the New York City Ballet, the Chamber Music Society, and the Film Society, Lincoln Center guarantees the best with programs appropriate for a variety of ages. To get here from the Grand Bazaar, hop on the downtown 1 train at 79th street and take it two stops to 66th street. Take in the beauty of the campus and be inspired by the impassioned energy it radiates. Treat yourself to one of its organizations' remarkable performances to really experience the spirit of the Upper West Side.

10 Lincoln Center Plaza, at W 66th street and Broadway

Hour 36 at the Hudson Hotel Rooftop Bar

Top off your weekend atop the Hudson Hotel New York. Located on West 58th street, the seasonal Sky Terrace rooftop bar allows you to look from the southwest end of Central Park over the neighborhood you’ve spent all weekend touring. Unwind in the rooftop hammock or one of the couches tucked into semi-private coves constructed by beautifully-kept hedges and vines. Bonus: the bar’s unobstructed view of the Statue of Liberty in the distance.

358 W 58th Street, 15th floor

Cover photo by pixabay user @Olichel