Hamburger in Paradise

The hamburger originated during medieval times by the Baltic Tartars. At that time the burger was raw steak tartare. German traders discovered this delicacy in the 19^th century and took it back to the port of Hamburg (you can see where this is going). They cooked the meat and it was called Hamburg steak when it reached the United States.  It was presented as a sandwich, the precursor of our modern burger, at the St. Louis World’s Fair in 1904.

Today the hamburger has a new celebrity status with gourmet burgers popping up on menus everywhere. Two new burger joints, and , recently opened just blocks from my house. As a food writer, I set out to measure these new patty eateries against old standbys in the neighborhood. Here’s a round up:

5230 Lankershim Boulevard

Damage: Cheeseburger with fries $8.50

Rating: ***

In the 1920s, Phil’s Diner Car served riders from the Lankershim train depot. By the 1990s, the NoHo cultural eatery was boarded up.   After over a decade of being closed, the revitalized dining car reopened earlier this year, as Phil’s Diner Fresh and Fast with an emphasis on organic, sustainable, local, hormone-free fast food. In addition to salads and sandwiches, Phil’s serves up their signature burgers with a few new options—in addition to beef diners can select veggie, turkey or bison meat.  All burgers come with a side of cheese and onion rings or fries.

4770 Lankershim Boulevard

Damage: Hamburger with fries and drink $5.95

Rating: ****

For over 35 years The Habit hamburger chain has provided Californians an inexpensive quality lean charbroiled burger. The chain originated in the small beach community of Goleta and spread to 45 locations in California and Arizona. Diners can order single and double charburgers, teriyaki burgers, veggie burgers, bacon burgers as well as chicken, tri-tip and tuna sandwiches for around $6. Burgers come with lettuce, tomato, onions, mayo and pickles. Shakes are hand blended and fries and onion rings are prepared in 100% vegetable oil.  For those following dietary restrictions, the Habit makes protein style meals by wrapping burgers in lettuce leaves.

10123 Riverside Drive

Damage: Custom burger starts at $8.75

Rating: ****

The Counter provides endless possibilities to build your own burger—turkey, veggie, or beef; 12 different cheeses from Greek feta to horseradish cheddar. It also offers an abundance of toppings, which range from standards such as red onion to the more exotic grilled pineapple, as well as over 20 sauces, including apricot and sweet barbecue. 

Bun choices include honey wheat, English muffin, traditional or the option to go bunless and enjoy your burger carb-free in a bowl.   They also offer an interesting array of sides, including fried dill pickle chips and sweet potato or parmesan fries.  The atmosphere is trendier than most burger joints (and burgers cost a bit more) with two large flat screen TV’s, pop music and a sleet brown and blue interior.

11375 Riverside Drive

Damage:  Cheeseburger $3.50

Rating: ***

This NoHo hole in the wall stand serves up no frills burgers, fries and shakes. Diners can order at the window under the turquoise awning and dine al fresco at tables or on stools at the small outdoor bar.   Quarter pound burgers come with lettuce, tomato, pickles, mayo and onions on a sesame seed bun. The cost is reasonable at $3.50 for a cheeseburger. Also on the menu are chili cheeseburgers, bacon cheeseburgers, turkey burgers, garden burgers and pastrami burgers.  Diners can also indulge with their bacon and egg sandwiches, breakfast burritos, tacos, quesadillas, hot dogs, fries, onion rings and free soda refills.

4211 Riverside Drive

Damage: Big Boy Combo, includes fries and a drink, $8.29

Rating: *

Bob’s is probably the oldest restaurant serving up burgers in the Toluca Lake area. The 50s style landmark diner opened in 1948.   Their famous double decker burger made from ground chuck comes on a sesame bun with shredded lettuce, American cheese and their special dressing—a mix of mayo, ketchup and relish.  They also serve a “classic” burger that comes with tomatoes and a pickle, a bacon burger and a veggie burger. All are served with French fries. By today’s elevated burger standards, the burgers at Bob’s are big on bun and sauce but lack enough meat. I had to ask myself, “Where’s the beef?”

Mo’s

4301 Riverside Drive

Damage: Cheeseburger with fries, $11.50

Rating: **

Mo’s lies right next to Bob’s (well technically across Rose Street) and has been grilling burgers since it took over Hampton’s in 1995.   With over 20 burgers on the menu, Mo’s offers a wide variety to choose from.   Many are unique concoctions you probably won’t find at other burger joints, such as the Foggybottom with sour plum jam and peanut butter, Frank’s Fantasy with sour cream and black caviar and the O-Sole-Mio with mushrooms, marinara sauce and cheese.   Diners can also visit the condiment bar for toppings and sides.   Local magician Lou Serrano performs tableside magic on Friday nights and Sunday mornings.